Hong Kong Demonstrations

The world is watching HK this week as the masses are out to protest... but what exactly are they protesting about?

The answer, as usual, is a complex one.  Before you can truly understand the current situation, a little history is required.  Briefly, the end of Opium War between Britain and China in 1841 brought with it a treaty that essentially handed Hong Kong and later surrounding territories over to the British for 100 years.  Both HK and the PRC (China) developed at completely different rates in completely different directions over the next 150 years, HK as a colony of Britain, the PRC as an sovereign empire and then communist nation.  In the 1990's, after China had gained considerable global  economic power, it called what is now the UK and said, "Hey, you know that treaty we signed?  We want our stuff back."

In 1997, HK was officially returned to the PRC as a SAR or Special Autonomous Region among many vocal dissidents who worried China would squash HK's sovereignty (freedom).  The PRC therefore made a 50 year agreement with HK essentially saying that it would leave HK alone except for matters of national defense and foreign affairs.  While HK's political and judicial spheres are more or less independent from the Beijing government, HKers were expecting to have regular local elections to choose their representatives.  Beijing initially agreed to allow HK to have elections, but have recently reneged on this agreement, now insisting that all HK electoral candidates must be approved by Beijing.

This plan to micromanage candidates in reality means that elections will not be free in HK, since Beijing can essentially choose the candidates and they will always be pro-Beijing.  This is particularly important to HKers not just on principle, but because in the past decade HK has faced some very serious local issues such as exponential housing costs due to Mainlanders flocking over to buy property, and what Americans would call "Anchor Babies," or pregnant Mainlanders taking a conveniently timed trip to give birth in HK so their child will have HK citizenship/registration (戶口).  These are just a few HK issues that will probably not be solved adequately if pro-Beijing candidates are the only candidates allowed to run.

That said, today is October 1st, and the National Day for the Mainland.  Protests are still going ahead in HK as they have been for the past week, and are planned to continue through the week.  Most notably in the news is the juxtaposition of umbrella wielding protesters, who have managed to thus far prevent any damage to property or person (including public grassy areas), and the police who have been throwing tear gas bombs at the peaceful protesters.  Go here for a first hand account of the police's attempts to break up the protesters using tear gas and an explanation of how legal assembly (protest) laws were overturned in HK.

As the protests wear on this week, it becomes more and more apparent that there is serious dissent among Hongers when it comes to the new election rules.  However, whether this protest will ultimately be successful remains to be seen; just a few months ago Taiwan held its own protests against uneven trade agreements with the PRC (and the illegal way it was passed in national government here), but as of now, nothing truly productive has come from those protests.  I hope for the sake of both places that their respective governments decide to listen and take the public's opinions into account- after all, these are supposed to be representative governments.

For a more detailed account of this event and updates on the protests, including currently occupied areas of HK, please check out The Guardian's page.  For up to the moment reports of the protests in traditional Chinese characters (Cantonese language), check out Next Media (Apple Daily).  If you have Google Chrome, it should automatically translate the page into your local language!  On the other hand, there is a distinct lack of coverage of the protests if you look at the PRC's major English news sources (Xinhua and CCTV), which is not surprising since Beijing has typically tried to keep quiet any unrest in order to prevent its spread (especially in the case of Xinjiang province, for example).  In any event, the best place to be kept up to date seems to be the local media in HK, if you don't mind reading a slightly mangled Google Chrome translation!

Communicating in Chinese (Taiwan Edition): Dos and Don'ts

Hi again,


I mentioned in a previous post about working in Taiwan that people here in Southern Taiwan sometimes have some serious mental blocks when it comes to interacting with non-Asian foreigners.  From what I can gather, this happens because people here aren't as exposed to Westerners, and this combined with the low Chinese literacy among expat Westerners has created the expectation that communication is impossible.  Or, at the very least, will be an excruciating process, given the tendency of many Westerners to become frustrated and yell when they aren't understood immediately.  This means that people here will likely not readily communicate with us (even if it's their job!).

For those of us that do speak Chinese, another strange phenomenon is the result; people may shut down if a Westerner (read: non-Asian) person begins to speak to them, even if you speak Chinese, resulting in some pretty lengthy blank stares.  Why?  I surmise it's because (particularly southern*) locals assume or expect Westerners not to speak Chinese, and when we do, it causes enough perceptive incongruity (Eyes say white face= No Chinese,  Ears say Chinese is being spoken) that it takes a couple of seconds to fully process what's going on.

As a result, many people may wave you along as if they can fan your existence into another plane, while some people may run away or try to hide behind something (both of these scenario's happened to me on a somewhat regular basis before I learned how to more appropriately interact).  Most commonly, people will stand staring at you with wide-eyed terror, as if you are some kind of monster about to eat their children.

Hyperbole aside, what can you do?  You have walked into a shop, or office, or other place of business because you need to get something done.  Chances are, you want the kind of experience you're used to having at home; quick, efficient, pleasant.  In Taiwan, this kind of experience is incredibly rare, especially in the south, unless you are pointing at food on a street side cart.  There are, however, some ways to make the experience easier on both yourself and the person trying to help you.  Read on to see some of my tips!

1. Do be patient.  Fortunately, you are in Taiwan: land of beautiful landscapes, delicious local produce, and great weather.  Unfortunately, most transactions here happen neither quickly nor efficiently.  Only you have the power to dissuade yourself from allowing the experience to become an unpleasant one!  Remember that most people want to help, but it may take some time before you are communicating effectively and get what you need.
2. Don't just jump right in and cut to the chase to try and get what you need quickly.  This will most likely lead to blank stares of extreme discomfort or possibly terror.  Sometimes going slower at the start will mean a faster result overall.
3. Do begin the interaction with normal, daily pleasantries in Chinese.  Say good morning or hello and ask if you can get some help or ask a question (and don't be afraid to use a dictionary):
   
   你早／你好 (hello, good morning) are usually best for starting a conversation. 
   Then follow with: 不好意思，可以麻煩你一下嗎？ (excuse me, can I bother you for a second?) or
   不好意思，可以問一下一個問題嗎？ (excuse me, can I ask you a question?) or 
   不好意思，請問一下，.... + your question?  (excuse me, can I ask you..... + your question)
   不好意思，可以問一下.... + your question?  (excuse me, can I ask you..... + your question)
   
   Starting with a general greeting and one of these questions will alert the person you're about to engage that, hey, you speak Chinese and you are a decent communicator.  It's sort of like introducing yourself when you first meet someone; if you make the attempt to do the pleasantries first, it gives locals a chance to process the fact that you speak Chinese and that this interaction shouldn't cause them any stress.  Most people will usually look immediately relieved once you begin an interaction this way.
4. Do speak clearly and use the simplest explanation you can.  Most of the time, you don't need to give a lot of background information, and usually this information just confuses locals further.  Keep it as concise as possible and you will likely be rewarded with comprehension!
5. Do remember that Chinese isn't your first language and expect to be misunderstood the first time.  You are trying your best to communicate and locals are doing their best to understand you.  If you aren't understood the first time, rephrase your request and try it again; sometimes it will take 2-3 tries before you are fully understood.  Expect this, and go in knowing that you'll get what you need eventually.
6. Don't give in to frustration and get angry.  If you haven't made any headway and you've tried explaining yourself 3+ times without success, don't be afraid to ask for someone who speaks English (or your native language).  You may get lucky and get someone who can immediately resolve the issue.  If not and it's an emergency, call 0800-024-1111 and have someone translate for you for free. 
7. Do learn to walk away.  If you can sense that someone isn't willing to help you or if things aren't happening in the way you like (such as in the Bakery when there are 3 staff members cutting a single piece of bread when there's a line 10 people long at the register- if you're from the south, you'll know exactly what I mean!), it's OK to walk away and try it again later, or simply take your business elsewhere.  Knowing your own limits (and triggers!) and when to walk away will save you from unnecessary frustration and stress in the long run.
8. Do remember that we are not speaking our native language and everything is relative.  Often times we might think we are being perfectly clear and eloquent, when in fact we sound like an elephant on steroids.  Many times misunderstandings will be our fault; regardless of how clear we think we're being, and sometimes it will be because people are bad listeners or can't escape the loop of perceptive incongruity.  If you go into a situation ready to communicate despite the hurdles, you will almost always be successful, just persevere!  加油！ And you'll get it done.

*Why do I keep singling out Southerners?  For three main reasons: First, the south is less international and is still in the process of developing, and thus has fewer foreigners in residence.  Second, foreigners that reside in the north typically occupy a greater variety of jobs so they are more integrated into society at large.  This means people are less likely to be on alert the instant they see a non-Asian face.  Third, more foreigners in the north speak Chinese fluently or at least decently well while more local Taiwanese also speak English fluently or decently well, which creates a greater environment for more fluid and less stressful/panicky exchange. 

Why you should -not- work in Taiwan

Working in Taiwan:  The Cons
  As many reasons as there are to come to Taiwan, outlined here in a previous post, there are just as many to seek employment elsewhere.  I'll address each of the pros from the previous post in order, to keep things consistent.

1) While your company takes care of pushing your paperwork and visa into the right office, most of the time they do not pay for this paperwork to be done (save for your work permit, which costs about $15 USD to file).  This sounds neutral on the surface, but I have known several people, myself included, who have had to shell out over $300 USD to get the appropriate visa.  The reason for this is that most companies will only officially hire you once you physically step foot in Taiwan (this process involves signing the contract and submitting the paperwork for your work permit, which alerts the government to your intention to work here).  Unfortunately, although you will not be de facto hired until you arrive, you cannot legally look for work in Taiwan; as far as the government is concerned, the company must file your work permit before you arrive, and you, must get the appropriate sponsored visa before you arrive.  This means that you run the risk of having to do a visa run if your landing visa expires before the government and your company can finish the paperwork.

But really, doing a visa run is the least of your worries- although expensive (another $500 if you go to the cheapest location- Hong Kong), you could face even bigger issues if the government decides they want to make an example out of you for not doing your paperwork on time.  Though this is rare, two of my partner's colleagues ran into this problem and were deported and banned from re-entering for a minimum of a year.  Still want to work here?  Keep reading!

Another major issue here in Taiwan is that Taiwanese law itself is rarely enforced unless there is political (or monetary) incentive (as described above), and it comes down to the individual to protect themselves against poor business (illegal) practices.  One very common occurrence here is the illegal contract; many companies will fine you for leaving before the end of your contract by withholding your last paycheck.  In fact, because companies usually pay employees the first or second week of the month on a monthly schedule, your company will always be withholding at minimum one to two weeks of your pay.  Withholding pay as a fine is illegal, but many companies do it, and many expats in Taiwan accept it as a matter of course, even though some consider it to be immoral and deceptive.  One company I was recently offered a job with had a clause in its contract that stated even if an employee's parent died and a death certificate could be provided, the employee would still be fined a minimum of $600 and as much as $1000 USD just for going home for the funeral!

Be wary of any contract that stipulates a fine for leaving your contract early, even if the contract does not explicitly state you will be fined if a parent dies.  A contract should ideally say only that they will ask for your training fee back, and all conflicts will be resolved through the local courts.  Contracts in Taiwan keep things vague on purpose- I had to ask a slew of questions before finding out that the school actually meant taking any time off at all- even in the event of parent death.  Do not assume contracts are legal.  Do not assume they are logical.  Do not assume that it "won't be that bad."  This is Taiwan.  As far as companies and schools are concerned, they have earned the right to do all of the above because many foreigners have done stupid, unprofessional things such as showing up to work drunk or leaving the country mid-contract without telling their employer.

Unfortunately, this cycle of distrust is bound to continue and only escalate as employees feel disrespected and employers feel they must go to great lengths to protect their businesses.  Lesson?  Ask as many questions as possible and know what you're getting yourself into.  Regardless of whether the contract is legal or not, you are legally bound to it once you sign and there is no protection, legal or otherwise, after this point.  The government's stance is simply, "you shouldn't have been stupid enough to sign an illegal contract."*

After speaking with the labor bureau about the contract and this particular clause, it was made apparent that the labor bureau finds this to be illegal and, in the words of the representative, "illogical and immoral."  In addition, I learned that in the event the parent of an employee dies, the employer is required to provide paid time off.  However, because I did not sign the contract and cannot legally sue them, nothing can be done.  This is typical in Taiwan: citizens are expected to enforce their own laws, but can only do so after they have been taken advantage of (in business, personal, or in many cases physical sense).  This is similar to physical assault here in Taiwan; if you get pushed, followed, and harassed by men, for example, the police will do nothing at all unless you can prove you were beaten to within an inch of your life or raped (and of course, the latter is almost impossible to prove in a culture where the victim is at fault).  All this means that as an ex pat, you are on your own as far as protecting yourself from the world of the devious and illegal.  In the words of our local police, "The police have no power here ... so you just need to be careful." 

One last point before I move on is this:  Although there are many unions and organizations that rally to protect the rights of workers in certain sectors, the sector where most Western expats work (cram schools or buxiban 補習班) does not have such a group.  This means that not only illegal contracts, but illegal working practices are also rife here.  Again, many expats remain ignorant of these breaches, or simply do not care to involve themselves in these issues as long as they are paid on time (which, consequentially is one of these common breaches since sketchy places will deliberately withhold pay or not pay on time- red flag!).  So again, it's essential to do your homework before accepting a position with a company here since there are many unsavory characters at work and little protection once you are embroiled in an illegal situation.

2) Speaking Chinese:  Although it is possible to get by in Taiwan without much knowledge of Chinese (especially in the North), without any knowledge, workers here put themselves at higher risk for being taken advantage of.  Offices in Taiwan rarely provide service in English (save for the visa office), and so if you run into any troubles here, you must rely on Taiwanese friends to help you.  This is perfectly fine for many people (most notably the white male expat who tends to find a Taiwanese girlfriend that can help), but for many others that like their independence, endlessly relying on others will get old, and frustrating, fast.

You already speak Chinese?  Great!  But no one will talk to you (in the south).  Southern Taiwanese often take on a deer-in-headlights look when non-Asian foreigners try to speak to them.  I suspect this is because there are still relatively few foreigners here and when expectation and reality do not coincide, locals simply have an involuntary shut down: "White face... words... language?  I... can't... WHAT!?!"  Then there are a few moments (or minutes) of open-mouthed blank staring before an attempt at communication can be made again.  For some insight in to how to combat this issue and communicate more effectively, please check here for an entry entirely dedicated to solving this issue!



3) Working conditions:  Although I briefly touched on some of the issues above, I would also like to point out that because of the current global economy and the growing trend of Taiwanese people to have fewer children later in life, there are fewer cram schools and also fewer regular schools.  In fact, in recent years several state schools have had to close due to lack of enrollment and teacher employment has taken a dive.  This means that full time (30+ hours a week) positions are on the decrease, and the average worker here will likely work between 14-20 hours per week, but are not likely to work more than this unless working at multiple locations.  This makes it rather difficult to save money while in Taiwan, especially as the cost of living has increased exponentially in the past decade while wages have remained stagnant or even decreased.

A second important issue is that most Western workers that come to Taiwan will have little to no mobility in their jobs.  In other words, working here will almost always be a 'dead end job' rather than an illustrious career path.  The reason for this is that Taiwanese companies usually only hire locals for management or higher level positions, so Westerners very rarely even get an opportunity to apply for them.  For people that stay here long term, this is a non-issue because they enjoy the lifestyle of working few hours and having little responsibility, or at least not having the full responsibility of management.  However, if you are looking to climb the latter into a career, Taiwan is not the best place to be since it is unlikely you will ever be promoted.



4)  Cost of living:  While a decade ago rent and food costs were low, today rent has been on a steady increase along with fresh produce.  For example, when we first arrived, broccoli was 20-30nt a head, depending on the season.  Today the price of broccoli never drops below 30nt and it usually sells for 50nt.  Taiwan has not really caught up to other countries in terms of frozen meals, so the options are basically buy fresh and cook for yourself at an inflated rate or eat out at one of Taiwan's many road-side stands that have almost no nutritional value but lots of oil and salt (delicious! but not very good for you...).  Again, because wages haven't increased and in many cases have decreased, this is rapidly becoming a problem for many.

Another issue with cost of living is that foreigners are taxed at 20% for the first 183 days they are in the country, and if you arrive during the wrong time, you could end up paying an entire year's worth of tax at 20%.  This may not seem like a lot, but in the long run, it amounts to 2-4 months worth of wages.  Half of this will be refunded to you via the tax office, but only after you have been here a full calendar year + the time between then and August, when the office does its refunds.  If you are staying in Taiwan long term, this isn't usually an issue because the Tax office will release the money into your Taiwanese bank account or into the account of a friend's.  However, should you leave before you are eligible to collect it, they will not send your check abroad and it can be tricky to get your refund.



5) Friendliness exposed:  Although Taiwanese are a pretty standard bunch of people, they are not necessarily any more friendly than anyone else in the world.  Should you need help, they will help you, but they will also may proceed to talk about you in Chinese.  I have also encountered situations where younger Taiwanese people will intentionally speak in Chinese so they are not understood and then switch to Taiwanese, the local dialect, when it becomes clear the foreigners involved speak Chinese.  This is an especially interesting scenario because many young Taiwanese people do not speak the local dialect fluently (they studied in school as a second language like many Western English speakers learn French or Spanish), and in essence they are using it as a way to escape being understood by foreigners, even at the expense of barely understanding each other!


6) Health care:  Although Taiwan's health care is cheap and usually convenient, more serious illnesses can result in very long (hours... and hours...) wait at the hospital to see someone.  In addition, because clinics run off of a computer system whereby they input symptoms and get a list of medication, patients can end up with a lot of unnecessary medication (think 10 pills when you really only need one).  Especially concerning in Western clinics (vs Chinese medicine clinics) is the propensity to dispense antibiotics like candy.  What's worse, doctors do not usually tell you what you are taking, and when you leave the office you are handed a bag full of medicine without knowing what's inside!  For the determined, many of the drugs can be looked up via internet, but if you're really sick, you probably don't want to spend 30 minutes investigating the drugs you've been given.  Taiwan is not the only country with this issue (I'm looking at you, France!), but it is still a serious problem that needs to be addressed not just for the health of Taiwan, but for the safety of everyone in a drug-resistant world.


In summary, each individual should make their own decision about coming to Taiwan to work and whether they think they will be able to adjust to life here.  For many, life is relatively easy and without heavy burden, but if money is a key driving force for considering Taiwan, there are many Asian countries that pay better and have comparable or lower living costs, such as Korea, or better environment (and less pollution!), such as Japan.



*Tellingly, in one of my Chinese learning textbooks, one chapter included a scene with a college-age girl who was swindled into prostitution ring.  When she realized what was happening, she tried to leave and call the police, who did not help her, rather they just chastised her for being so stupid.  This is incredibly symbolic of Taiwanese culture.  Victims are blamed first.  Make sure you protect yourself:  work or otherwise.  As a woman, be aware that rape happens frequently, is rarely reported because of victim blaming, and almost never goes to trial.  As a foreign woman you will likely be harassed, but in normal circumstances will not be in physical danger, but the same rules as home apply in Taiwan regarding clubs, bars, alcohol/drugs. 
Keep in mind:  A 7-year-old-girl was raped by a middle aged man several years ago and the courts ruled that it wasn't rape because she had consented to sex with the man.  Logic?  No.  Victim blaming?  Yes.  Be careful.

Why you should work in Taiwan

Hello everyone,

This topic is near and dear to my heart (as those of you who know me will know by now...) and I thought it was high time to write a blog entry about the ups and downs of job hunting and working in Taiwan.  This goes without saying, but even so I feel I need to say it again; these are my opinions only and although people have different experiences, I try my best to share the info I have collected over my time here (but it may not necessarily reflect your experience!).


Working in Taiwan:  The Pros


I was chatting with Jenny the other day about a conversation she had with one of her Taiwanese colleagues regarding the treatment of foreigners (specifically white-collar, and usually Western/white foreigners... this does not include south east Asians, for example, who are treated very differently) and the truth is that white collar foreign workers are typically treated decently well.  For example, if you come to work in Taiwan, your company will likely take care of all of the necessary paperwork, you will generally receive basic training, and although your company/school will probably not provide housing (which some may argue is a good thing!), they will help you find your own housing nearby (and really anything else you need).  In fact, many companies will hold your hand through whatever it is that you need, including getting a plumber or electrician to your house should you need one, and even setting up your cell phone.

The reason for this is simple: while in English-speaking countries there is a clear expectation of English fluency, Taiwan has no such expectation with Chinese.  In fact, in some cases (mostly if you teach English) you may even be overtly discouraged from learning or speaking Chinese.  This means that such workers spend most of their day in an English-speaking environment and will probably have little need to actually use Chinese.  In addition, it is relatively easy to get your daily essentials done (groceries, etc) without any use of Chinese at all.  For many people, this may mean a smoother transition into working here since workers do not have to try very hard (if at all) to learn Chinese.  And believe me, learning Chinese is no small hurdle!

Working conditions in general are favorable for the white collar worker.  In fact, for those looking to maximize their profit for local travel while putting in fewer hours, Taiwan is one of the best places to be.  Legal full time in Taiwan is not 40 hours a week, as in Western countries, but 14 hours a week paid per hour, and although you might be hard pressed to live lavishly on 14 hours (most people usually work around 20, but it is possible to live modestly on 14 hours), it is certainly possible to work fewer hours for your bread and butter.  In this case, you may find you have a relatively open schedule to do other things you really enjoy like traveling around Taiwan, hot-spring hopping, or getting involved with local clubs or groups.

Typical, cross-boarder/cultures/country office drama aside (read: office drama happens everywhere, don't expect it to be any different here!), the average workplace itself often provides a supportive and pleasant work experience.  As long as you're polite, you can pretty much get anything you need done, and usually in a timely manner.  This makes the ease of transitioning into a position here relatively easy, both in terms of adapting to your new job and to the environment (within the job and in the community at large).

Standard of living in Taiwan is comparatively high to many of its Asian neighbors, and for just 30,000NT (about 1,000 USD) a month, a single person can maintain a good, but modest standard of living.  Bare in mind that the cost of living is comparatively low.  For about 45,000NT (1,500 USD) a month, a western foreigner can maintain a lifestyle similar to what they would enjoy at home with frequent drinks and meals out, and the sporadic shopping splurge on electronics.  At about 60,000NT per month, this is estimated to be equivalent to earning 100K USD per year back home.  With this amount, frequent traveling or child (or pet!) rearing is possible, and it just so happens that this is the bracket most western foreigners with work experience find themselves in; it's the reason most people stay.  However, starting out, you can expect to make around $45,000nt per month as most places start the hourly wage at $600-$620nt, regardless of experience.  Keep in mind that foreigners are taxed at 20% when they first arrive and health insurance is also taken out, so take home will be less.

Another tick in favor of working in Taiwan is the seemingly friendly nature of the Taiwanese people.  Despite the general lack of Chinese ability, Taiwanese people tend to put their best face forward when dealing with white collar workers.  In fact, many people I have encountered often regale me of tales in which they were helped or their lives somehow improved by a passing Taiwanese person who happened to be in the right place at the right time.  And truth be told, Taiwanese people will help you out best they can (as most people hopefully would), especially if you can speak a little Chinese.

One final vote in favor of Taiwan is its health insurance.  Rated as the best in the world, there really is no denying that Taiwan's health insurance is great for the everyday ills, especially since there are clinics everywhere and you can choose between Western and Traditional Chinese medicine.  As long as you're working, you can pop into a clinic and see a doctor and get your medicine for about 100-150nt ($3-5 USD).  Wait times at either type of clinic with an appointment are typically between 10-30 minutes, without an appointment up to an hour.  Generally, health care in Taiwan is easy, cheap, and convenient! 

*Update:  Before leaving Taiwan I suffered from severe dehydration and had to have an ambulance called to take me to triage.  The ambulance, three hours of IV, and misc. doctor's fees totaled $25.00 USD.  Taiwan's health insurance is truly the best in the world.  In the US, the ambulance alone would have cost $150, and the total would have been around $500, even with health insurance.



Sound good?   The impression one gets is generally that Taiwan is a wonderful place to be and for the most part, it is- decent work, friendly people, no need to learn the local language, but be warned... for those of us who speak Chinese, there is another side to Taiwan...!

Culinary Excurion in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

Delicious hand-made Balinese food!

When you first mention Bali, Indonesia, most people immediately think of beautiful beaches, lounging in the sun along the ocean by day and enjoying the club scene by night.  In fact, it is exactly because of this impression that Jenny and I have stayed away from Bali for so long- but boy, were we wrong!  Bali has so much more to offer these days than just beaches and clubs, and to share a little secret, we actually never really made it to the beach at all, and our brief passing experience didn't hold a candle to our time in Ubud.

It's an hour drive from the Airport to Ubud

The beginning of our journey was a bit shaky- we forgot to change money before leaving Taiwan, so when we arrived at the airport, we realized, much to our horror, that none of the money changers would exchange Taiwan Dollars.  After wasting quite a bit of time trying to find someone to change our money, we gave up and headed to the taxi stand, which is on the ground floor and to the left as you exit the main building.  Our only choice was to have a taxi take us to a Kuta money changer to exchange our cash, which meant spending more money on a taxi, but ultimately it was better than being stuck without cash since we weren't sure if Ubud would be able to change NTD.

Once in Ubud, we stayed at a very nice hotel called Jiwaklusa Luxury Villa Ubud.  Unfortunately, it was a little difficult for our taxi driver to find, but once we got there, we were met with a fresh lemon grass tea which was delicious and refreshing.  The small villas of the hotel were equally fantastic and done up to a very high level, but we discovered that looks could be deceiving.  

Although the aesthetic was beautiful, there were some pretty glaring issues with the design of the villa, namely the sliding doors to the villa which did not close or seal.  This meant that noise from the surrounding areas traveled freely into our room at night, along with the smoke that accompanied a local custom of burning trash every morning.  Making things worse was that the gap between the sliding door at wall was in fact, so large, that shrews were able to easily stroll in and out (and I mean literally stroll, no squeezing necessary- the gap was about an inch wide).

 After speaking to management about the issues, we were upgraded to an even more stunning villa further up the hill with a private pool.  This move took care of the noise and most of the smoke, but the design flaw in the sliding door was the same, which meant we continued to get visits from the neighborhood shrews.  For us, this was not a deal breaker- we have always believed that we are part of nature and because we displace others, we have to live with the consequences, so we weren't too worried, although they did help themselves to a welcome cookie we forgot to put away.

One great service the hotel provides is a cooking class.  Both Jenny and I are vegetarian, so we decided to opt for their cooking class over one of the many in Ubud so we could have more control over what we cook.  When compared to the cooking classes offered in town, the one at our hotel cost about the same and the results were amazing.  We started with a trip to the local morning market where we bought fresh produce for our meal plus some fresh fruit for ourselves, and ended up cooking 3 courses and then some- all vegetarian, all delicious, and unfortunately it was so bountiful, we couldn't even finish it!

In Ubud proper, there are tons of classes visitors can take, cooking, batik and other textile appreciation courses, sculpture and woodwork, jewelry, massage, music... you name it, if it relates to art or culture appreciation, chances are you'll be able to find a course in Ubud.  Knowing that now, I would definitely recommend people planning and booking their classes before they show up if they want to take a longer class (they run up to 3 weeks long and they're totally amazing!).  That said, I hope we get a chance to go back and actually take advantage of more of the classes they offer in Ubud, because I feel like cooking wasn't enough!  A word to the wise- stop by the visitor's center in the center of town to pick up a list by date of all of the festivals, concerts, and performances happening around Ubud!

Stray Dogs of Taiwan: Why should you care?

Laila came to us on her deathbed

Although stray animals exist in almost every society around the world, there are several places where stray domestic animals exist in comparative numbers to human residents; India is often cited by researchers as the best place to do research on this phenomenon, but Taiwan (particularly Southern Taiwan) is also in dire need of consideration.

Here in Kaohsiung, stray dogs wander the streets in packs of up to 20 dogs, and although they are generally the best behaved pooches in Taiwanese society (they rarely bite or fight with humans), they are the cause of widespread fear of animals.  Although most of these stray animals will never harm a human- in fact, these animals tend to fear human contact and stay as far away from humans as possible- they are still the direct result of human action.  So, how did these dogs get here?

Mini Muffin ultimately found a forever home with my parents

In Southern Taiwan, there is a prevalent feeling that lingers around non-human animals that relegates them to the "thing" category.  Animals are not considered, by many, to be sentient beings worthy of humane treatment and consideration.  As such, many people are quick to buy a puppy from a pet store because the animal is just too adorable to refuse without knowing much if anything about its needs, only to find out later that the animal's natural requirements are too inconvenient for the buyer to fulfill.  Unfortunately, pet stores are not the only places unhealthy animals are hocked onto the ignorant public; breeders here are often as bad as puppy-mills since no genetic testing or other precautions are taken before pairing animals, meaning animals from breeders are often just as likely to suffer from genetic disease as pet store animals. 

Billy (Goat) was found wandering around a local park; likely someone threw him away

Once an animal has been purchased without adequate background knowledge, it is only a matter of time before the person responsible for the purchase reneges on their responsibilities and the result is either an abused animal, a neglected animal, or an animal disposed of like garbage.  Another big issue is that because of the general environment of irresponsibility about pet guardianship, most people do not spay or neuter their animals, and when they decide to throw their animal onto the street, these pets turned nomads will naturally seek others of their kind and reproduce at an uncontrollable rate.

Baby ended up being a CNR

If you think this is a problem that is only caused by ignorant pet purchases, think again.  My personal research (tied to my MA degree in Anthropology) has shown that individuals are not the only perpetrators of treating animals like literal garbage.  Many pet stores also make it policy to kill or throw away animals that have spent too long in the pet shop and have not been purchased within a certain amount of time.  This is a stark reminder that this kind of thinking is systemic in Taiwanese society and that any changes need to be from the ground up.

Little Leaf had her leash caught around a bush in our local park; likely someone threw her away

To make matters worse, the government's official stance on the stray population is that they are pests.  The resulting policy rewards independent animal catchers for bringing in animals (or carcasses) for culling (for an alternative take, see how India is combating their stray population).  Unfortunately, animals rounded up in this way are treated inhumanely and in some cases are ripped apart alive by the hooks catchers use to control them.  Even more unbelievable is that pets that are micro chipped, tagged, collared, and playing in local parks are not exempt from this treatment.  A friend went national after her micro-chipped/tagged dog was stolen out of a local park by a dog catcher.  By the time the guardian was able to locate her dog, it was already dead.  And the reason, of course, is that catchers are paid by the body, indiscriminately, regardless of whether the dog is tagged or not.

Why should you care?

If you live in Taiwan, this situation is obviously distressing, especially if you are a pet owner since your pet could be in the wrong place at the wrong time and be taken.  However, there are greater consequences for allowing people to treat animals in this way; studies have shown that caring for a pet can help children foster a sense of responsibility and compassion towards others (see this article by Hedda Meadan and Brinda Jegatheesan 2010), and this is something that I believe should be fostered worldwide, regardless of age.  In fact, those who treat animals badly are often flagged for a wide variety of criminal behavior later on.  Being good to animals is good for human society!

By allowing people to treat animals like garbage, we perhaps subconsciously reinforce the idea that it is acceptable to treat others as disposable.  In Taiwan, this mentality certainly extends past animals into the human realm, as many workers here are exploited as a matter of course.  Obviously, this exploitation is a much larger issue that needs to be addressed, but if we start with teaching the next generation of Taiwanese to be responsible and compassionate towards one another through our furry companions, I have no doubt that this will go far in changing not only treatment towards animals, but our treatment towards each other.



*All of the photos in this blog post are of dogs we have rescued over the years

Hsinchu Statue Park, Hsinchu City, Taiwan

This is a back entry from over a year ago from when we went up to Hsinchu's Statue Park.  We took the TRA to Hsinchu station and hailed a taxi from there up to the Statue Park- GuQi FengYu Park or 古奇峰育樂園 （guqifengyuleyuan).  I've heard it's possible to take a bus to a nearby bus stop, but we opted for the most direct way!  Regardless, if you're interested in seeing some pretty freaky statues, ranging from beautiful Buddhist statues to Daoist figures to graceful human figures to horses, demons, and even the Statue of Liberty in miniature, this is the place to go.  Below is a map of Statue Park (300新竹市東區高峰路306巷66號):

The grounds themselves are pretty interesting.  As you wander through the hilly paths of this private collection of statues, much of the park is shaded by trees, which makes for a very pleasant walk.  This is in contrast to most of the parks in Kaohsiung that offer little in the way of protection from the sun.  In fact, although many other bloggers, such as Casey, find this park a bit creepy (and I will admit that some of the statues are a bit displaced), I found this park to actually be quite charming despite its kitschiness!

There are plenty of statues to keep your interest piqued- from horses, to humans, to lanterns, all along a winding mountainside path.  There are even some side paths you can take that will lead further into the woody areas, which were particularly pleasant.  The key, I think, with this particular attraction is to keep an eye out for the older, more religious themed statues, as they are a bit more aesthetically pleasing.  That said, neither Jenny nor I ended up taking any photos of the more outlandish statues at the end of our walk (imitations of famous western works) lined up along some pretty ugly white tile.  Most of our photos are from collections off the beaten path covered in overgrowth, trees, and moss, since they seemed to be the most photogenic.

Honestly, I think this park could be something really special if the time (and money) was spent to reorganize the statues and display them in a more appealing way.  Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like this will happen in the near future, but if you happen to be in the Hsinchu area, it's worth stopping in for a stroll around.

Mid-Autumn Moon Festivities and Illnesses

Chang e floating through the sky

This week is moon festival for those of us living in or among the Chinese Culture and although Taiwan has one of its rare long weekends (and I actually made plans well in advance!), my plans have been squashed by none other than the common cold.  Ah yes, the common cold.  With its sore throat inducing, sinus blocking, head pressure creating, unbearable-ness, I have become totally useless to the world in just the amount of time it took for me to fall asleep on Thursday night and wake up on Friday morning.

But enough about my seasonal pathogens, onwards to the festivities and the proverbial (and literal) bright side.  The Mid-Autumn Moon Festival, or 中秋節 (zhongqiujie), has a particularly interesting legend that accompanies it, and I would like to share it here:


Once there was a famous archer called Hou Yi, who lived with his beautiful wife, Chang E.  In Hou's time, there was not one, but 10 suns that took turns circling the skies.  The suns rotated regularly without incident for many years, but one day all circled the sky in unison, scorching the earth below.  The Emperor called for Yi and commanded him to shoot down all but one of these suns to restore order and prevent the anhilation of the earth.  Yi thus expertly targeted and removed each of the nine additional suns from the sky, and as a reward was granted the Elixir of Life.

However, the Emperor told Yi that he must not consume the elixir immediately; instead, he should prepare himself spiritually before consuming the pill, and so Yi began a year of meditation and spiritual strengthening. During this time Yi was called away again, but this time while he was gone his wife, Chang E, found the Elixir of Life.  Being innately curious, she helped herself to the elixir and began to float away.  Upon her husband's return, he began shouting at her, and pursued her, trying to shoot her down.

Chang E continued to fly until at last she reached the moon.  Here, she resides in her moon palace alone.  She is only permitted to meet with her husband once a year, during the Mid-Autumn Moon festival when the Moon is at its fullest (and closest) to earth.


To celebrate Chang E, the moon goddess,  families traditionally prepare or buy and then distribute moon cakes or other smaller cakes, such as green or yellow bean cakes, to other family members and friends.  People may also go to temples (in Taiwan, Daoist or Buddhist) to pray and make offerings.

Traditional Mooncake with yoke symbolizing the moon: source

Although a wonderful story, this legend does little to explain the historical importance of this holiday.  So why is the Mid-Autumn Moon Festival relevant holiday historically?  Well, the Mid-Autumn Moon Festival was not only to commemorate Chang E, the devilishly curious wife turned moon goddess.  In face, the Mid-Autumn Moon Festival had a very practical goal- to give thanks for good harvests and pray for returning yields to be just as bountiful.  So really, perhaps farmers were really central to the beginnings of this harvest-oriented holiday.

Regardless, the modern Moon Festival holiday in Taiwan is completely dissimilar to either traditional legend, save for the consumption of moon cakes.  Here, some families take the opportunity to travel abroad or within Taiwan if there is a long weekend.  For those that stay, Taiwan tradition dictates BBQing assorted meat products out on the streets (this is often done not only by families but also among colleagues outside of their work place) and the consumption of moon cakes (although many would say the latter is optional). 

An interesting note here though, is that the Taiwanese barbeque tradition is not a traditionally Chinese one at all.  It was actually started about 20 years ago by a company looking to sell grills over the holiday.  It launched a hugely successful marketing campaign that convinced nearly the entire Taiwanese population that BBQing was the best and only activity of choice for Moon Festival!  Thus, it has been a island-wide necessity since then- even when the weather is questionable.  Just a couple of years ago, it rained the entire Moon Festival weekend, and even so, companies, families, classmates all still huddled under awnings out on the streets to do their 'mandatory' BBQ.

More Traditional Moon Cakes from White Wood House

Moon cakes have also taken a less traditional turn in contemporary Taiwan, and lots of kids I know no longer prefer the traditional moon cakes (pictured in the first photo).  Today many companies, including international ones, have their own take on the moon cake as they vie for a place in the Chinese Market.  As can be expected, many new flavors of moon cakes have come on the market in recent years- from the traditional baked moon cake with new flavors like cranberry to moon cakes that are only truly moon cakes in shape, such as the ones from Godiva and Haagen-Dazs below.  Despite the fact that they are probably not "true" moon cakes in the strictest sense, I can say from personal experience that the Godiva ones are delicious!

2014 Haagan-Dazs collection

2014 Godiva collection

Which brings me to my weekend.  Although I've been sick for the past three days with a cold, I am hopeful that tomorrow, the actual Mood Festival holiday, will still be filled with our own BBQ of fat and juicy Portobello mushrooms and other vege, and a box of my favorite Godiva 'moon cakes.'  With any luck, tomorrow will still be a great (if not congested) day!