Lion Dance Competition, Kaohsiung Arena, Taiwan

Malaysia got cut off (on the left!); Sorry Malaysia! <3

As the Lion Dance Competition 2014 approaches in December, I thought I would post some of our photos from last year's event.  This is one of the few international competitions that Kaohsiung hosts, and it is pretty intense.  When we arrived, despite having bought tickets, we were not guaranteed a seat, and the very large auditorium (Kaohsiung Arena or 巨蛋) was already filled to capacity with people sitting on the stairs.

Off the bat, I must admit that I was pretty put off- if I pay for a ticket a month in advance (or more!), I expect to have a seat... and it was really dangerous to have people climbing over each other on the stairs and in the aisles.  All I could think about was the immense fire hazard of it all, and that made it a pretty weird experience.  Along with the masses of people was constant noisy chatter of spectators, including children, who made very little, if any attempt to keep their voices down.  The MC for the event wasn't much better, running his mouth the entire time and making jokes that only he was laughing at... it was so invasive, that a group of performers nearly fell off of their poles after a particularly loud interjection.  After that, the other staff had to tell him to shut up (though it did very little to dissuade him)!

The competition itself is really interesting and entertaining; teams from all over Asia participate every year from Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, plus the top ranking teams from Taiwan.  The teams compete in a variety of categories including technical skill, facial expression (and Malaysia is famous for it's puppy-lion so if you go, keep an eye out for their more emote lion), and creativity.  Each team spends time up on the poles doing jumps, lifts, and other choreographed moves, and while trying to make it look amazing and effortless, they are also trying not to fall off the tiny poles and tumble into the padding about 6-8 feet below.  Make no mistake- this sport looks super cute (if you're Malaysia), but it's actually really hardcore and requires painstaking hours of practice plus maybe an iron will.

Getting there:  
If you're considering a trip to the Lion Dance Competition this year, you can buy your tickets via iBon at any 7-11 store island wide.  I would recommend seeing it once, but because the event is 3-4  hours long, be prepared for a long performance and know you may not end up staying for the whole thing (also bring water and snacks!).  Many people usually only stay for the first half, and you'll likely notice an exodus somewhere through the middle if you do decide to stay.

Falling out of the sky, Macau

Recently, we took a trip to Macau for a long weekend (only 45 minutes from Taiwan!) and despite all of the hype about casinos, we managed to stay well away except for a brief meal in their shadow.  By the way, that meal ended up making both Jenny and I sick, though we probably should have known better than to eat at a non-vegetarian restaurant.

Anyway!  This casinoless trip was tons of fun- we spent most of our days eating delicious egg tarts (蛋撻) and walking the historic streets of Macau.  In fact, after checking out the visitor's center and hoarding all of their English/Chinese brochures, we found out that there are several designated routes around the city that visitors can take explore their UNESCO World Heritage zone.

Wiki Source

Since we love being outside (and the pollution wasn't nearly as bad as here in Kaohsiung), we had a great time stopping at all of the different historical buildings and learning about their histories.  The Portuguese architecture is absolutely beautiful, and there is a certain air of Europe fusion as you walk through the streets.  We even got to check out a large local Mazu temple and a really awesome Maritime Museum once we got to the end of the historic walk near the harbor.

On the last full day we were there, we decided to get a little more ambitious and decided to do a blind wander around the city.  We just picked a direction and started walking, and we ended up exploring a lot of really cool local neighborhoods and some really well-designed parks.  Did I mention we like parks?  

Early in the morning the day we were supposed to leave, we also hiked up the hill behind our hotel to have a look at the weather station and a very old church that had been erected next to it.  Here we learned about the history of the weather warning system used in Macau and Hong Kong, and wandered around the grounds, enjoying the wonderful breeze and views.

You, too, can jump off a building in Macau...

Even if you're not a gambler, I would definitely recommend Macau for a short stay.  The food is great and the architecture and history is wonderfully rich.  Macau is a truly unique place where the best of Asia and Europe meet- definitely worth checking out!

Flashback Friday: 8/8/2009 Typhoon Morakot

Local park after Typhoon Morakot

As this year's Typhoon season safely draws to a safe close, I thought it would be appropriate to do a flashback to one of Taiwan's largest Typhoons in recent history.  In 2009, Typhoon Morakot ripped through South East Asia and hit the Philippines and Taiwan especially hard.  Here in Taiwan, 461 people were left dead and nearly another 200 were reported missing.  The most hard-hit areas were mountain villages;  here, the rains relentlessly pounded Taiwan's eroded mountainsides and caused mudslides that virtually erased several aboriginal villages and left many without homes.

Although the sheer force of this typhoon could not have been helped, the government of Taiwan faced severe critcism over the slow response to the typhoon and the destruction it caused.  Many people worried that the government was particularly slow because aboriginal villages were involved and were not considered a priority.  For whatever motivation, only about 2,000 members of the national guard were deployed to help landslide victims and remove the trapped residents still stuck under debris.  Later on, about 46,000 troops were deployed to rescue the thousands of people left stranded or stuck in affected areas.

For our part, our courtyard filled up with water and began to flow into the apartment buildings in our complex, filling up the lobby and descending down the stairs into the parking garage below.  A call went out on the PA system for the buildings, asking all abled bodied people to come downstairs to help baracade the doors.  Jenny and I helped by participating in a sweep up (essentially sweeping water out the door after clearing the courtyard's drains) and sand-bagging the doors to prevent water from continuing to flow in.

Although this kind of typhoon doesn't hit often, they are becoming a much more frequent occurrence in Taiwan as in other places, like the Philippines.  These storms remind us that no matter how hard we try, we cannot fight against nature and win; we need to work with nature if we want our lives, buildings, and societies to remain in tact.

Pingdong County and Green Island, Taiwan

Storm brewing over the ocean, Green Island

The answer to the previous entry's teaser is... Green Island (綠島)!

Located just east of mainland Pingdong county on the east coast of Taiwan, Green Island has a rather sordid history.  Originally, the home of an Aboriginal group called the Ami, Green Island was was Sanasai Island by the native people.  The Ami lived on the island in relative isolation until the Qing Dynasty, when the island's first Han people arrived on the island.  In 1895, the Japanese also arrived, now calling the island "Burned Island" and this marked the end of Ami control of the island.  During the Japanese occupation, Green Island was converted into a prison colony, and continued in this capacity even after the Japanese yielded control to the new KMT (Chinese Nationalist Party).

View of the ocean

Though originally used as a prison for Prisoners of War during Japanese occupation, the Green Island Prison held political prisoners during Taiwan's (Republic of China) period of White Terror.  The period of White Terror from 1949-1987, saw the systematic capture, torture, and murder of political dissidents and academics in Taiwan.  The most intense  persecution happened between 1950-1952, though Martial Law was not lifted until 1987.  Though this era in Taiwanese history is especially dark, Taiwan was not the only place to experience this tumultuous social pattern; events taking place on the mainland during the cultural revolution mirrored Taiwan's White Terror during the same period.

Hanging out on the beach during an incoming typhoon

The prison itself has since been turned into a museum that has free admission and attracts a wide variety of guests.  For an in depth look at the history and legacy of the Green Island Prison, please have a look through this website that tells the story of the prison through photos and first hand accounts.

Air field at Green Island

In case you're now wondering why on earth you would want to go to an island infamous for its prison, you might be surprised to know that Green Island is home to some pretty spectacular scuba diving/snorkeling and there are plenty of dive shops to choose from.  If scuba isn't your thing, development on this island has been restricted, so aside from a single road that circumnavigates the island, most of what you'll see is lush forest on all sides- it's really inspiring.

Walking along one of the islands many scenic paths

Driving around the island takes about 30 minutes by scooter or about an hour by electric scooter; I highly recommend the electric because the island is so small (you don't need all the oumph of gas).  In addition, because there are so many tourists, destinations in town are cramped and smoggy from exhaust; the locals shouldn't be adversely affected by the steadily increasing tourism and our vacation!  Key word:  Responsible Tourism

Cycling on our electric bikes, feeling good about our low environmental impact!

If neither of these suits your fancy, there are beautiful hiking paths that zig-zag the island, along with a hot spring resort to submerge your achy muscles in one of the only salt water hot springs in the world when you're done.

Hanging out with cuteness during a typhoon

Jenny and I mostly hiked and biked around during our time on the island, and even spent some time on the beach.  Unfortunately for us, a typhoon was blowing through the region and arrived the day after we did, so we weren't really able to see as much as we would have liked.  Even so, we had a fabulous time at our hotel, Jack's Inn, hanging out with the hotel dog, Kulo, and watching the storm blow in.  We took a seat just outside the hotel under the overhang, enjoying the crisp air and the sound of rain drops hitting the trees, and chatted for hours with staff.  It was satisfying on so many levels, and even though we were limited in activities it was still one of our best vacations!

Jenny's awesome guest book entry; I drew the hearts!

Getting there:  To get to Green Island, you will need to fly via local domestic airline or take the boat from Fugang harbor.  We took the TRA (standard train) from Kaohsiung up to Taidong, and from there called a taxi to take us to Taidong Airport.  We were told it was possible to walk to the Airport (maybe 20 minute walk) but we weren't sure how to get there, so we opted for the cab.  Once at the airport, we picked up our tickets (you reserve them over the phone) and had a snack while we waited for the plane.  The ticket was about $1500nt (50USD) each way and the plane was veeeeery small.  The flight itself is only 12 minutes long, so prepare for a very windy ride because the plane doesn't fly that high!

Those feeling more adventurous may want to consider taking the boat, but from what I have heard, the seas are rough and the ride is several hours long.  Even one of the Lonely Planet authors admits it was a mistake to take the boat- he spent the entire time vomiting!  From what the other guests at our hotel told us, this is pretty normal- almost everyone throws up on the boat ride over.  Since both of us get sea sick, we naturally opted to spend a little more to take a smoother-and faster plane ride.

Teaser 4: Name that Place (Taiwan)

Hi!


It's that time again!  This week's teaser is once again in Taiwan, and it is in my opinion, one of Taiwan's most beautiful places.

 

Hints for this week:

1.  This was once the site of a famous prison.
2.  This is a small, volcanic island.
3.  Another name for the island is "Burned Island"

Can you guess where this beautiful place is?

Simakusi Aboriginal Village Hike, Taiwan

Simakusi- 司馬庫斯

 

We have arrived at the ancient tree site!

Just another weekend trip in Taiwan.  This short excursion took us up to Taipei to meet with the hiking group 523 before driving back south to Hsinchu and then east into Taiwan's central mountain range.  On the way, we made a brief stop at a small town to stretch our legs, buy some snacks and water for the road, and enjoy some fresh morning air.   This was the last major stop we made before arriving at our destination, so we were advised to make sure to buy lunch for the road.

Just some of the delicious, handmade snacks we saw along the way

After several hours of highway and tiny, windy mountain roads that turned on a hair pin, we arrived at hiking site number one.  Except a typhoon had just come through so we had to abandon our efforts just 15 minutes into the hike- it was just too dangerous and no one had a machete to clear the path as we hiked; we were literally scrambling over downed trees and very spiky vines and bushes!

Beginning of the trail to the ancient trees

Not to be deterred, our group decided to walk towards our hotel via the road instead.  Along the way we saw local children and dogs, and the deliciously sweet peaches that were just coming into season.  It was a great walk, and definitely preferable to being in the car on the twisty roads.  Unfortunately though, the sky opened up and it started raining just as we were nearing the home stay.  Needless to say, we were all very wet and very sad because it was actually quite cold on top of the mountain!!

Peaches protected from insects and birds until ripe

Before we set out from our home stay the next morning, we ate a local breakfast and then got the opportunity to try our hand at grinding millet.  In effect, this is the same process traditional mochi and lei cha are made with, using a large pestle and mortar to pound the grain until it is sticky and smooth.  After it's ground and pounded, the sticky ball of millet 'dough' can be made into a number of different edibles or even eaten raw like mochi or tangyuan.

Showing us how it's done!  Pound that millet!

The following day we were off very early in the morning to hike to the site of Taiwan's ancient trees who (yes, who) are supposed to be over 1,000 years old.  The hike takes you through bamboo forests, over small streams and graceful waterfalls, past mushroom farms and abandoned scooters until you finally reach the ancient trees.  Once you arrive at the trees, they are fenced off but you can walk around them and I mean walk aaarrrrouuuuund them.  Like a bad yo-mama joke.  These trees are massive and it really make you think about the beauty and destruction of our planet.

Tree appreciation

Thousand year old trees, still in danger despite attempts to curtail erosion

On the way back from the ancient trees, we had more time to stop for photo-ops since the town itself opens for tourists coming up to the town only in the morning, and down off the mountain only in the afternoon (after 4:00).  That said, we took some time to really appreciate the natural landscapes, in particular the very unique water falls and dramatic mountain edge paths.

 

Back in the town of Simakusi, we were told that no vehicles were allowed to leave the town because two tour buses had phoned in saying that they were delayed coming up.  Because the roads are so narrow along the mountain side, only one vehicle can safely drive along it at a time.  This meant that we still had plenty of time to kill in the town before we could set off home, so we dispersed and had a look at the few shops available, finally deciding to have a cup of tea at the touristy restaurant.

Outside the tourist center, a local bear carving

Simakusi road leading to the ancient tree trail

 In the end, we waited another hour for the buses and when they didn't show up, the town's tourism coordinator gave permission for vehicles to begin heading down the mountain.  As soon as the announcement was made, our group ran to the van and we queued up to leave the town's parking lot.  Just a few minutes later we were back on the mountain roads again, twisting and turning, when we ran into the buses!  Luckily, we hadn't gone too far and were able to maneuver around them.  Once past, we began our journey back to Taipei where we would spend the night before making the trip back to Kaohsiung.

Getting to Simakusi:  Because Simakusi is on aboriginal land and is aboriginal-run, the best way to make a visit is through a tour group or other organization.  The hiking group 523 does periodic trips to Simakusi, and I would highly recommend them, although the group mostly speaks Chinese (they do post in English on their facebook page).  Do note that the car ride is puke-worthy if you get car sick; it takes several hours to get there, and most of it is on very narrow, windy mountain roads.  Consider this before planning a trip here!


Would I recommend this trip?  Yes!  It's beautiful, but make sure you are polite and remember you are a visitor on Aboriginal lands: take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints.  (And remember to ask if taking photos of aboriginal houses or people!)

NCNU Appreciation, Puli, Taiwan

Ahhh, the central mountains of Taiwan- this is where Alishan, Xueshan, and Sun Moon lake reside, where the air is fresh, and the mountains are covered with lush vegetation.  This is also the location of my school; that's right, I'm still in school, but hopefully not for too much longer since my oral defense is coming up in just a few months.

OK, so, this is mostly just a humblebrag post because I happen to go to school in one of the most beautiful places in the world (no joke- just look at some of my other posts for Sun Moon Lake and you'll see exactly what I mean).  In Kaohsiung, where I currently live and do research, the city is sandwiched with factory zones in the north (Nanzi- 楠梓) and south (Xiaogang- 小港） so the air chokes you to death daily.  In fact, after a brief hospital trip recently, doctors told me that my internal organs are swelling from exposure to the air and the only 'cure' is to leave.  No joke.  I have been declared allergic to Kaohsiung.  This means that my original plans to stay, find a job, and make some money here will have to be adjusted because I'm developing asthma from breathing this air.

Anywho, back to Nantou (南投) and the central mountain range.  Japanese tourists flock to climb Taiwan's mountains en mass over the weekends and long holidays.  In fact, we've heard plenty of tourists saying that they are 'collecting' Taiwanese mountains, or trying to climb as many as possible.  Taiwan has 100 mountains over 3000 meters so if you're here every weekend for two years, it's possible... but who really wants to fly all the way over here to climb a mountain?  Half of Japan.  Because they're THAT beautiful.  For serious.

So where does my school fit into this?  Well, my school is on a mountain in that central mountain range, believe it or not!  My campus used to be the site of an old sugar refinery, but the land was sold and my school was built atop it.  In the morning, we can see the sea of clouds on our way to morning classes, in the evening, you can watch the sunset over the mountains.  Sound good?  I bet it does!  In fact, for all the faults I've found with the school itself (and there are many, which may be the subject of another blog entry), there is absolutely nothing to fault with the campus itself; it's flawless.  Just inspiring landscapes, fresh rejuvenating air, and FLYING SNAKES!!!  No really, there are signs all over campus.  But even despite the snakes, it's a wonderful place to be.