Simakusi Aboriginal Village Hike, Taiwan

Simakusi- 司馬庫斯

 

We have arrived at the ancient tree site!

Just another weekend trip in Taiwan.  This short excursion took us up to Taipei to meet with the hiking group 523 before driving back south to Hsinchu and then east into Taiwan's central mountain range.  On the way, we made a brief stop at a small town to stretch our legs, buy some snacks and water for the road, and enjoy some fresh morning air.   This was the last major stop we made before arriving at our destination, so we were advised to make sure to buy lunch for the road.

Just some of the delicious, handmade snacks we saw along the way

After several hours of highway and tiny, windy mountain roads that turned on a hair pin, we arrived at hiking site number one.  Except a typhoon had just come through so we had to abandon our efforts just 15 minutes into the hike- it was just too dangerous and no one had a machete to clear the path as we hiked; we were literally scrambling over downed trees and very spiky vines and bushes!

Beginning of the trail to the ancient trees

Not to be deterred, our group decided to walk towards our hotel via the road instead.  Along the way we saw local children and dogs, and the deliciously sweet peaches that were just coming into season.  It was a great walk, and definitely preferable to being in the car on the twisty roads.  Unfortunately though, the sky opened up and it started raining just as we were nearing the home stay.  Needless to say, we were all very wet and very sad because it was actually quite cold on top of the mountain!!

Peaches protected from insects and birds until ripe

Before we set out from our home stay the next morning, we ate a local breakfast and then got the opportunity to try our hand at grinding millet.  In effect, this is the same process traditional mochi and lei cha are made with, using a large pestle and mortar to pound the grain until it is sticky and smooth.  After it's ground and pounded, the sticky ball of millet 'dough' can be made into a number of different edibles or even eaten raw like mochi or tangyuan.

Showing us how it's done!  Pound that millet!

The following day we were off very early in the morning to hike to the site of Taiwan's ancient trees who (yes, who) are supposed to be over 1,000 years old.  The hike takes you through bamboo forests, over small streams and graceful waterfalls, past mushroom farms and abandoned scooters until you finally reach the ancient trees.  Once you arrive at the trees, they are fenced off but you can walk around them and I mean walk aaarrrrouuuuund them.  Like a bad yo-mama joke.  These trees are massive and it really make you think about the beauty and destruction of our planet.

Tree appreciation

Thousand year old trees, still in danger despite attempts to curtail erosion

On the way back from the ancient trees, we had more time to stop for photo-ops since the town itself opens for tourists coming up to the town only in the morning, and down off the mountain only in the afternoon (after 4:00).  That said, we took some time to really appreciate the natural landscapes, in particular the very unique water falls and dramatic mountain edge paths.

 

Back in the town of Simakusi, we were told that no vehicles were allowed to leave the town because two tour buses had phoned in saying that they were delayed coming up.  Because the roads are so narrow along the mountain side, only one vehicle can safely drive along it at a time.  This meant that we still had plenty of time to kill in the town before we could set off home, so we dispersed and had a look at the few shops available, finally deciding to have a cup of tea at the touristy restaurant.

Outside the tourist center, a local bear carving

Simakusi road leading to the ancient tree trail

 In the end, we waited another hour for the buses and when they didn't show up, the town's tourism coordinator gave permission for vehicles to begin heading down the mountain.  As soon as the announcement was made, our group ran to the van and we queued up to leave the town's parking lot.  Just a few minutes later we were back on the mountain roads again, twisting and turning, when we ran into the buses!  Luckily, we hadn't gone too far and were able to maneuver around them.  Once past, we began our journey back to Taipei where we would spend the night before making the trip back to Kaohsiung.

Getting to Simakusi:  Because Simakusi is on aboriginal land and is aboriginal-run, the best way to make a visit is through a tour group or other organization.  The hiking group 523 does periodic trips to Simakusi, and I would highly recommend them, although the group mostly speaks Chinese (they do post in English on their facebook page).  Do note that the car ride is puke-worthy if you get car sick; it takes several hours to get there, and most of it is on very narrow, windy mountain roads.  Consider this before planning a trip here!


Would I recommend this trip?  Yes!  It's beautiful, but make sure you are polite and remember you are a visitor on Aboriginal lands: take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints.  (And remember to ask if taking photos of aboriginal houses or people!)